We have now figured out the secret to a successful trip to Marrakech during Ramadan: sleep all day and only go out at night.
Humans are like cows. We're safer as part of a herd. And while the lack of people in the central square made us easy targets during the day, at night the square was full of people, locals and marks, er, tourists alike. So instead of hounding you until they got at your money, the vultures just moved on to easier targets. "No" actually worked again.
It might have helped that we left our cameras and bags at the hotel.
And once you're free of the vultures, the square was actually fun. The food the vendors are selling is cheap, tasty and interesting. The niece is liking the tangines, and I found this chicken dumpling thing that was pretty fabulous.
After dining al fresco, we wandered around the square a bit to see what happens at night. Surrounding the square are shops selling every manner of thing you might want, including pirated copies of American music ranging from The Best of Cat Stevens to remixes of songs playing on U.S. radio stations as of two weeks ago. At one end of the square are all the food carts, which are clearly there more or less permanently. But in the rest of the square people form up in circles, surrounding one form of entertainment or another. Drum circles were very popular, as was some game involving hoops on strings tied to long poles, with the goal being to get the hoop over a bottle of soda.
The niece and I both decided that what we wouldn't go back to the square in the day time, at night it would be worth a return visit.
Maybe tomorrow I'll risk bringing the camera so I can have some pictures to share.
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